Materials

He has several watercolor kits, starting with one homemade from a book. It has the paints, a well, a water container, brush storage, clips, and paper in the back. The next one is a small kit purchased from an art store that has several trays for pigments, but no storage. Even smaller he found a small container with just enough room for basic black and white pigments. The last one is homemade out of cardboard and packing tape that acts as the mixing surface. If you’re working at home you can easily use a plate as a palette with a bowl and a squirt bottle for water.

The brushes he uses are a size 4 mop, size 0 mop, size 5 round, size 6 round, and a pencil/brush hybrid, and a blade that can be used to scratch out highlights. He carries several pencils as well. The first one is a mechanical pencil (you’ll likely need a mechanical pencil sharpener).

Demonstrating the difference in pencil leads he shows the differences between hard and soft leads. The more traditional pencils he carries are 7B, 5B, 8B watercolor wash pencil, 8B, and F. He also carries a mechanical eraser and kneaded eraser. He also keeps an extra brush in his pencil pouch just in case. Of course you’ll need to carry a pencil sharpener, too.

Stuart uses cold pressed, fine tooth or hot press watercolor paper that he prefers for portrait work. But for landscape he prefers a more rough surface. He discusses the differences you’ll notice working on heavier and lighter weight watercolor papers and how to avoid warping while working if you prefer, but he notes that you usually do not have the time to prepare your surfaces properly when someone agrees to sit for a portrait for you.

Most of the materials you can find at art stores and online, but be sure to keep your eye out for any quirkier surfaces you can use as palettes at thrift stores or garage sales.